Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!


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An excellent selection of your Finlayson Sweaters

I have the first selection of your Finlayson Sweaters to parade today!  I have really been enjoying the attention to detail that you have all been applying to your sweater sewing endeavors – such gorgeous neckline facings!  Such lovely cross-over collars!  Such wonderful contrast fabrics!
Finlayson Collage 2Clo’s | Clo’s | I’m Not Tina Wheeze

Finlayson Collage 1I’m Not Tina Wheeze | Ann Kin (submitted by email) | EllenSand | Ms. Laing

I’ll be showing you more sweaters as they are entered by email, comment on the blog, or on Twitter and Instagram (#finlaysonsweater).  Have a lovely weekend!


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Behold: My Finlayson Sweaters and the winner of the Sewtionary!

MorgansFinlaysons-2 Here are the finished Finlayson Sweaters that I made during our sew-along!  I am very pleased with how they turned out and I hope that you are feeling the same way about your sweaters.MorgansFinlaysons-4 I think my favorite one is the gray hoodie because the ponte de roma knit I used is so deliciously soft and smooth.

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The velvet touches make it just that much more sumptuous – I’m not normally a hoodie-wearing person but I think I can approve of this one since it doesn’t leave me feeling the least bit sloppy or slouchy when I wear it!

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My shawl collar version is in my favorite colour of burgundy/purple.MorgansFinlaysons-11

It is made from a poly blend which seems to dry quite quickly and also provides a fair amount of warmth.  It isn’t as soft and cozy but I think it’s hard wearing and quick drying properties will make it very useful for camping.MorgansFinlaysons-10

I have been collecting your Finlayson Sew-Along contest entries and will parade some of my favorites on the blog along with the winners of our Finlayson Competition on Oct. 1st.  So, if you are considering sewing a Finlayson Sweater, this might just be the perfect opportunity to get going on it :).  By submitting a photo of your Finlayson to our our contest, you will have the chance to win a shopping spree at one of four of my favorite online fabric shops!

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As I’ve mentioned over the last few weeks (but it is worth repeating), simply email us (info@threadtheory.ca), comment on the blog, or post on Instagram or Twitter using #finlaysonsweater to be entered to win!

Sewtionary launch party

And, now to finish off this blog post, I have a winner to announce for the Sewtionary give-away!  I am pleased to announce that Rebecca will be receiving a lovely spiral-bound Sewtionary in the mail :)  Her comment was randomly chosen using a random number generator.  Here is what she wrote:

An email is waiting in your inbox with all the details, Rebecca!

Thank you to the well over 100 people who commented on my blog post about Tasia’s Sewtionary.  It was lovely to hear how excited you are about her book and there were some very heartwarming comments.  Some people would like the Sewtionary to help them teach their daughters how to sew while others would love to add Tasia’s book to their collection because her patterns have changed their lives and they way they think about clothing.

After reading and learning from it over the last few weeks, I don’t hesitate to tell you that, even though you didn’t win the book this time, it is certainly worth putting it on your Christmas or birthday wishlists – or even better, treating yourselves by buying a signed copy from the Sewaholic store right away!  I hope Tasia’s book will help many of you become more confident with your ability to sew, with the clothing you wear, and with your ability to teach others how to sew!


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Finlayson Sew-Along: The cuffs and hem band

Can you believe it?  It’s already the last day of our Finlayson Sew-along!  Today we’ll be adding our cuffs and hem band…and finishing the day with a cozy sweater to wear!DSC03760

You may have noticed that we included two Cuff pattern pieces – I probably should have mentioned this second cuff piece when we cut our Finlaysons out of fabric early on in the sew-along.  But, alas, I forgot to!  So we’ll discuss it now:  We included the second, larger, cuff piece for you to use based on the extremely helpful advice of our test sewers.  You may have noticed that I am adamant about the versatility of the Finlayson Sweater pattern when it comes to fabric choices.  One of our test sewers noted that fleece fabrics (a great choice for a cozy sweater!) REALLY vary in the amount of stretch they contain.  So that you won’t be constrained in your choice of fleeces (as long as they have a little bit of stretch), we created the Optional Cuff for you to use.  Cut your cuffs from this piece so that you won’t have to ease so drastically when attaching the cuff to the larger sleeve…much easier to sew if you don’t have much stretch to work with!

With that in mind, onward with our sewing of the cuffs!  Whether you use the main Cuff pattern piece of the Optional Cuff piece, the sewing process is essentially the same:

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Fold your cuffs in half to match notches together.  Pin along the notched edge (in the photo above, the fold is on the left hand side).DSC03728

Sew along this notched seam.  I used the reinforced stretch stitch as per with the rest of the sewing process for my Variation One sweater.DSC03729

If using a stitch that allows you to open the seam, press your seam open.   Otherwise, you can simply press the seam to one side.DSC03731

Now fold the cuff in half (so that you are folding the seam that you just sewed in half).  Press along the fold – this will be the very bottom of the sleeve.DSC03733

Stretch the looped cuff over the sleeve end so that all three raw edges line up (I’ve shifted the cuff up the sleeve in this photo so that you can see all the layers clearly).
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Pin the cuff in place – be sure to line up the seams and stretch the cuff evenly around the sleeve.DSC03734

In the photo above you can see how much easing you will need to do!  (Now you can see why it is far easier to use the Optional Cuff piece if your fabric doesn’t stretch much!).DSC03738

I really like to apply clear swimsuit elastic to the cuff seam because I often push my sleeves up my elbow and can’t stand when my sleeves stretch out and slip downwards over and over again throughout the day.  This clear bit of elastic will do wonders to prevent stretching!  I have often read that you shouldn’t allow your needle to punch directly into clear swimsuit elastic as you risk creating a weak point where it will snap.  I have never had this problem yet, but please keep this in mind and consider using a stitch that will capture the elastic by encasing it in stitching (a super wide zig zag or serging, for example).  I just used a narrow zig zag stitch!

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If your fabric is loosely knit (mine isn’t!) you might consider pulling the elastic slightly as you so to give more structure to the seam and fully prevent any fear of stretching out.DSC03742

Once sewn, trim your seam allowances and press them towards the sleeve (away from the cuff).DSC03713

To sew the hem band, simply repeat the process that we used for the cuffs – you won’t have to ease quite so much with this pattern piece though!  Once you’ve formed a loop with the hem band, pressed the seam open and pressed the band in half length-wise, encase the sweater with the hem band and line up all three raw edges.  Line up one of the side seams with the hem band seam.
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I stitched my hem band using a reinforced stretch stitch and finished the seam allowance with a wide zig zag stitch.DSC03724

Trim your seam allowance, if desired…DSC03725

…and press the seam allowances up towards the sweater.DSC03726

And we’re done!  If you were sewing Variation One, you are done your sweater!  Congratulations!!!
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Now, onwards to Variation Two.  As with the previous sew-along post, the sewing process for the cuffs and hem band are the same as with Variation One.  Begin by pinning the cuffs and hem band in half (matching notches).DSC03745

I serged this variation but use your preferred stitching method of choice to finish the notched seams.DSC03747

Press the seam open or to the side (depending on your stitch type) and then fold the cuffs and hems in half width-wise.DSC03750

Press the hems and cuffs to create a crisp fold (which will be the bottom of the sleeves and the bottom of the sweater.DSC03756

Pin the cuffs and hem band over the sleeves and sweater, matching all three raw edges.DSC03757

Sew these seams – I sewed them with my serger.  In case you are interested to know: My serger has trouble cutting through several medium-weight knit layers – especially when I have to cross over the extra layer of the kangaroo pocket or the sleeve and side seams – to combat this issue, I often trim my seam allowances with scissors before sewing so that only 1/4″ of the allowance remains.  That way, I don’t need to cut off any fabric with the serger blade while sewing!  Trimming first works a treat :).DSC03759 And we’re done Variation Two!  WAHOO!

Join me again on Wednesday to see my finished Finlaysons (I’m sure I’ll be wearing them steadily in the meantime!).  And, make sure you submit your lovely Finlaysons to the Finlayson Sew-Along contest for your chance to win a fabric shopping spree!  To enter, comment on any of our Finlayson Sew-Along blog posts with a link to your sweater photos.  You can also email your entries to me (info@threadtheory.ca).  Since I’ve been enjoying seeing many of your Finlaysons on Twitter and Instagram youare now welcome to submit your Finlaysons for the contest on these forms of social media by sharing them as #finlaysonsweater.  It’s been so exciting to see all the entries pouring in!


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Finlayson Sew-Along: Sewing the sleeves and side seams

Happy Friday!  I hope your collars and hoods turned out well.  Today we’ll be adding the sleeves to our sweaters and sewing the side seams.  You’ll be able to try your sweater on by the time you’re done this session of sewing!DSC03677

The sleeve pieces include a double notch on one side and a single notch on the other.  Double notches always signify the ‘back’ of a garment and, in this case, they match with the double notches on the sweater back armhole.DSC03679 DSC03681

Pin the first sleeve to the sweater with right sides together and notches matching.  You might want to use quite a few pins to help the sleeve contort to the shape of the armhole.DSC03683

Sew this seam slowly, adjusting the fabric to keep the raw edges lined up as you go.

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I sewed the seam with a reinforced stretch stitch and finished the seam with a zig zag stitch.
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If you’d like, you can trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk along the sleeve seam.  Press this seam towards the sleeve (as pictured below).DSC03689 DSC03691

And now it’s time to stitch our side seams (one of the most exciting parts of sewing a garment, in my opinion!  Our sweater is finally taking shape!).  Pin the side seams and arms with right sides together.  Take extra special care to match the armhole seam.
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I stitched the whole seam using the usual reinforced stretch stitch and finishing the seam with a zig zag stitch.DSC03708

Depending on what stitch you used, you can either press the entire seam open or you can press the seam allowances towards the back.

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Since the sleeves and side seams are the same process for Variation One and Variation Two, I’ll include only the relevant pictures to show you the serging on this version:DSC03668 DSC03669

Press the serged sleeve heads towards the sleeve.
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I also serged the side seams and pressed them towards the back:
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Well, that’s it for today!  A fast and easy one :).  Come back on Monday to finish our sweaters – WOOT WOOT!  I’m so excited to see the sweaters that you are working on.


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Finlayson Sew-Along: Neckline twill tape and the kangaroo pocket

Welcome to the next installment of the Finlayson Sew-along!  We’ll be adding twill tape (or ribbon) to our necklines today for a fancy and professional looking finish.  We’ll also be sewing the kangaroo pocket.  I’m adding this pocket to my grey ponte de roma sweater (Variation Two) but you could add it to either variation depending on your preference.DSC03632

I’m going to go over two techniques for adding ribbon or twill tape to your Finlayson Sweater’s neckline.  The first technique will be slightly different than the one we include in our instructions and the second technique (which I’ve used for the grey Variation Two) will be the same as in the instruction booklet.

This first technique is a bit simpler but also a bit less professional version of applying trim to the neckline.  I stitched the ribbon directly onto the sweater without folding under either ribbon edge.  This will work well if your ribbon isn’t very wide (my 1″ ribbon was quite wide for this technique but, since it is satin, it still managed to bend to the neckline curve fairly well) and if it’s edges aren’t very scratchy.

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To apply the ribbon, you will need to thread your machine with a thread colour that matches the ribbon on the top and a bobbin full of thread matching the sweater on the bottom.  Pin your ribbon to the neckline so that the top of the ribbon lines up with the neck seamline and the rest of the ribbon extends into the sweater below.  Allow the ribbon to extend at least 1/2″ past the shoulder seam on either side of the neckline.DSC03635

Simply top stitch the ribbon along the neck seamline, stitching as close to the top ribbon edge as possible:DSC03637 DSC03638

If your ribbon is too long, trim either end of it so you have 1/2″ that is unsewn along the top.  This is kept free to tuck under before you sew along the bottom of the ribbon (leaving no raw edges).DSC03639

Pin the bottom of the ribbon and the tucked ends in place.  Stitch along the bottom of the ribbon, and, if you like, stitch along either ribbon end to keep the tucked ends from slipping out (this isn’t very necessary with narrow ribbons (1/2″ twill tape for example) but is probably helpful with 1″ ribbons like the one I used).DSC03640

And there you have it!  A gorgeously finished neckline!

 

Now I will show you the very slightly more complicated method that I included in the instruction booklet.DSC03618

The only difference with this method is that it results in a ribbon with a tucked under top edge.  This is potentially softer on the neck and creates a narrower ribbon finish which means the top stitching visible from the right side of the sweater will be closer together and thus a bit more attractive.  To begin this method, pin the ribbon/twill tape to the garment with the right side of the ribbon facing the sweater and the bottom ribbon edge lined up with the neckline seam.  The rest of the ribbon will extend above the sweater towards the collar.DSC03621

Stitch the bottom edge of the ribbon in place using a thread that matches the ribbon on the top of your sewing machine and a bobbin of thread matching your sweater on the bottom.DSC03623

Trim either end of the ribbon so that 1/2″ free ribbon extends beyond the shoulder seam and stitching.  Fold the ribbon downwards to cover the neckline seam allowance and fold under the 1/2″ free ends.DSC03624

Pin the folded ends and rest of the ribbon in place.
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Stitch along the bottom and the folded ends of the ribbon.  Voila, you have a beautifully finished neckline!DSC03627 DSC03630

This is what your sweater will look like from the outside.  Of course, if your twill tape or ribbon were thinner than mine (the recommended 1/2″ for example) your top stitching would look much closer together.
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Now we’ll move on to the kangaroo pocket!  Finish all edges (as per the instructions) or, if you are wanting to finish only the very necessary edges, you can finish the edges depicted in the photo above.  I finished my edges with a serger but you could also use a zig zag stitch.DSC03644 DSC03647

Now fold over the slanted pocket openings (5/8″).DSC03649 Pin your trim over the raw pocket opening edge.  At first, I placed my trim centered over the raw edge but I ended up shifting it closer to the folded edge before stitching because I wanted my top stitching to be close to the edge on the outside of the pocket.  You would not need to shift your trim this way if you are using 1/2″ twill tape as recommended!DSC03651

Stitch down either edge of the ribbon and trim any ribbon extending past the pocket.DSC03654

Above is how your pocket will look from the outside!DSC03655

Fold under the remaining 5/8″ seam allowances.  You don’t need to fold under the bottom edge of the pocket because it will be aligned with the bottom of the sweater front and finished when we add the hem band at a later point.DSC03657

Pin the kangaroo pocket to the sweater Front matching the pocket sides with the notches along the sweater Front bottom edge.DSC03658 DSC03663

Stitch the pocket to the sweater along the sides and top, keeping the stitching 1/8″ from the folded edge.  If you would like, you are welcome to baste the bottom of the pocket in place so it doesn’t shift about.

And that is all for today!  We’ll be continuing with our sewing on Friday.  See you then!


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The Sewtionary Blog Tour: Interview with Tasia and a book giveaway

Sewtionary cover 2

Have you got your hands on a copy of The Sewtionary yet?  It is a a new publication that is quickly becoming a necessary reference book in every modern sewist’s arsenal of sewing tools.  It is written by Tasia, of Sewaholic Patterns, who, as I’m sure you all know, is a fellow Canadian sewist and entrepreneur who I much admire.  When Tasia asked me to be part of her Sewtionary Blog Tour, I was thrilled to join in!

Tasia

So, in case you don’t already know her, let me introduce you to Tasia! She is the designer and mastermind behind the gorgeous Sewaholic patterns which are, invariably, classic and easy-to-wear designs with careful pattern drafting and clear, well-thought out instructions.  Matt and I had the pleasure of meeting Tasia just a couple weeks ago while she was on a Vancouver Island holiday.  We were inspired to no end by her enthusiasm for sewing and her business!

Sewaholic patterns

The Sewtionary: An A to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques and Definitions, is exactly the sort of book you might expect from the woman behind such successful patterns – it is beautiful, easy-to-use (the spiral binding allows it to lay flat on the sewing table), well organized, and wonderfully logical.  I’ve interviewed Tasia about her new book so that you can learn a little more about it before acquiring one for yourself (head to the bottom of the post for a giveaway of a printed copy!).

Sewtionary

Can you summarize the purpose and content of your book and how you came to write the Sewtionary?

I was approached by F+W Media about the possibility of turning the Sewtionary page on my blog into a book. Of course I was thrilled about the idea when I first received the email! I often read books that have very good tutorials, or useful tips, but then when it’s actually time to sew a garment using the technique, I can’t remember which book had the info. The purpose of the Sewtionary is to be a sewing dictionary, an easy to use alphabetical book that makes it easy to find what you’re looking for. As well as demonstrations, I also wanted to include WHY you might want to know this skill, and examples of when it’s used. Instead of trying to have something from each letter, I picked what I felt were the most important 101 techniques and organized them from A to Z.  I wanted to have all real fabric examples in the photos, instead of diagrams, so it would easy to follow along at home. Because it’s a reference book, it features a coil binding so it can lie flat when you work. (Usually I weigh down other books with my phone or a stapler or something to keep it open, and end up bending the spine.) I wanted it to be a very useful book in all aspects, from the content and images to the physical book design.

Sewtionary photos

When writing your Sewtionary, what areas of the process most surprised or challenged you?

I definitely underestimated how much time it would take to sew all of those samples! There are literally thousands of samples in the book, one for every single photo. Plus the garments! For the step-out samples that I had to cut or sew during a demo, I made extras in case I screwed up or in case we need to retake the shot. And there were some samples that didn’t photograph well that I had to remake for a reshoot.  That was surprising, the sheer amount of time it took to sew everything, and a good reminder to always allow extra time for new or unknown projects. The other thing that surprised me was how many people are involved in writing a book! I had an editor, a tech editor, a book designer, photographers, and of course my own writing and sewing, with Caroline’s and Corinne’s help. So many people review and edit the material, it’s an amazing amount of work. It’s given me a new respect for the book publishing industry.

Who do you imagine will find your Sewtionary most invaluable as a sewing room resource and how do you imagine it to be used?

I bet some people will read it cover to cover, just to see what’s inside! That’s what I would do if I had just bought it. I think it will be most useful later on though, when someone needs a tutorial on bound buttonholes, wants to know what a godet is, or needs to look up different seam finishes. That’s when the A-Z format will be really helpful. I’d love to see it used in a classroom setting, especially at the high school level.

Sewtionary spiral bound

What feedback about your book have you found to be most rewarding?

So far, the number one comment is that it’s so beautiful and there are so many pictures! People are loving the format of the book, especially the coil binding.

Picnic dress

I found it very clever and also stylish how you incorporated samples sewn using your sewing patterns throughout the book – do you have plans to display these finished garments on your blog?

Some of them, yes! The border print Cambie Dress is so pretty I might use it for fresh photos on the shop page.

Sewtionary launch party

And, of course, do you have plans to write another book soon?

Not soon, that’s for sure! It took nearly a year from start to finish for the Sewtionary book, including writing, sewing, and editing, so it would be a while before another book would be a possibility. I’d love to wait and see if this book does well before starting the process over again. I’d also want to have a really good idea, something fresh and new, and right now I don’t have anything in my mind as good as the Sewtionary concept. It’s so rewarding to see the book out in the world now, so I could see another book in my future some day!

 

Tasia and her publisher have kindly offered a printed copy of the Sewtionary as a giveaway on our blog.  Enter the contest by commenting on this post for your chance to win the book (Please comment about the Sewtionary – what skills do you hope to learn from it?)!  And head to the Sewaholic store to buy your own (signed) copy if you don’t want to wait for the winner to be drawn :P.

The give-away will end on Wednesday, Sept. 17th.  The winner will be drawn randomly from the comments on this post.  Good luck!

Here is a schedule of the rest of the book tour – follow the links on the listed dates to read more about the book, enjoy tutorials and projects related to the Sewtionary and have the chance to enter other giveaways!


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Finlayson Sew-Along: Preparing and sewing the collar or hood

Welcome back to the Finlayson Sew-Along!  I’ve added a badge to the right side of the blog – so click on it to refer to the schedule if you need to read older posts again.

According to the schedule, it’s a big day for us Finlayons sewists today!  On Friday we sewed our Decorative Facing and shoulder seams; today we will be moving on to perhaps the trickiest part of this sweater – the collar or hood! That being said, it really is only tricky in the context of how easy it is to sew the rest of the sweater, the cross over collar/hood is actually quite simple.DSC03566

First things first, it is important to note that the seam allowance for the neckline is 3/8″ rather than the 5/8″ used for the rest of the sweater.  We decided to use a 5/8″ seam allowance for most of the sweater so that people using a regular sewing machine (rather than a serger) can sew the Finlayson just as they would sew a woven garment.  For the collar, however, it makes more sense to use a smaller seam allowance which produces less bulk.  That way there is less trimming involved once you have sewn your seams.DSC03527Let’s begin with Variation One (if you are sewing Variation 2, scroll down considerably until you see the grey sweater!).  Distinguish between your Upper and Undercollar pieces by placing a pin in one of them or marking it in some other way.  I pinned my Upper Collar.

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To assemble the collar pieces, place the two pieces right side together and pin along the long convex curve .  Make sure to match the notch at the center and stretch the rest to fit (as the two collar pieces are shaped slightly differently to encourage the seam to roll under once the collar is finished).  I stitched my pieces together using the reinforced stretch stitch and a 5/8″ seam allowance (since this isn’t a neckline seam).
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It is a good idea to grade this seam to reduce bulk.  You can do this by trimming one seam allowance to 1/4″ and the other to approximately 3/8″.DSC03534

If your fabric doesn’t seem to fray or pull and run too much, you can clip triangular notches into your seam allowance so that the curve turns right side out nicely but you might want to avoid doing this if your fabric shreds along raw edges very easily – you don’t want to weaken the seam!DSC03535

Flip the collar right sides out and carefully iron so that the seam sits slightly turned towards the under collar.DSC03537

At this point you have three options – you can choose to leave the collar like this, you can under stitch the seam allowance and under collar together to help the seam stay rolled to the underside, or you can do what I have done in the photo above – top stitch 3/8″ from the finished seam along the entire curve.DSC03538

The last step to prepare the collar before adding it to the sweater is to baste the remaining Upper Collar and Under Collar raw edges together.  You’ll need to ease the layers again gently to make sure that all notches match.DSC03541

Now it’s time to do a bit of origami!  Place your collar in front of you with the Upper Collar visible.  Fold the right end inwards as pictured above.
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Fold the left end inwards and stack the narrow collar ends together.DSC03544

Lift up your collar and, without changing its positioning, place it on top of the sweater front.DSC03549

Line up the collar notches with the placement markings on the sweater front (I’ve placed pins at these two positions so you can see them clearly).  Stitch, using a reinforced stretch stitch or just a straight stitch, from placement marking to placement marking (remember to use a 3/8″ seam allowance! Your seam will start and finish 3/8″ from either collar edge.DSC03550

Now that the base of the collar is attached, it is necessary to re-position the collar so that it lines up with the sweater neckline.  I do this by grasping the sweater through the loop of the collar (see photo above) and pulling the entire sweater through the collar loop.DSC03553

With some shifting and re-arranging, your sweater will eventually be positioned as photographed above – you can see the armholes in the middle of the photo and the sewn collar front on the right hand side.  All raw neckline and collar edges are lined up together.
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Above is a photo of the positioning from a different perspective.  You can see the collar front in the middle of the photo and the pins mark where the collar notches match with the shoulder seams.  Pin the entire collar circle in place.DSC03555

At the collar front we will begin our stitching where we left off along the front of the collar.  Keep in mind, when you begin and end your sewing of the collar loop, that there is quite a bit of Sweater Front fabric that needs to be kept out of the way while sewing (see the photo below).  I like to sew the collar loop with the collar visible and the sweater against the bed of the sewing machine but you are welcome to sew this loop from the sweater side too (if you want to keep a close eye that the sweater doesn’t get pinched in the seam!).DSC03556DSC03558

And here we have it!  The finished collar (before any ironing or top stitching).DSC03559

This is what the collar front looks like from the inside.  You can see that my seam curves quite considerably at the corners – it should look more angular than this but I finished my front collar seam slightly too far from the collar edge.  This little mistake didn’t cause much harm though!  With a bit of ironing and top stitching (as we will do shortly) the rounded corners looked perfectly presentable!DSC03564

Trim the collar seam allowance as much as your fabric requires (depending on how easily it frays and how bulky it is).  You could grade these layers to reduce bulk further if you prefer.  Once trimmed, press the seam allowance towards the sweater.
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As an optional way to create a flat and crisp appearance, you can top stitch the seam allowance in place all along the collar seam.  I started my top stitching at a shoulder seam so that the back stitching will stay hidden under the turned collar.  I top stitched 1/8″ from the collar seam.DSC03562

Congratulations, your sweater has a finished collar!

Now let’s move on to Variation Two and sew the hood:
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Place the Hood pieces with right sides together and pin along the hood curve.DSC03570

You can do the same pinning to your lining pieces and sew both seams in one go!  Since I am sewing this sweater with my serger, I simply serged these seams.  You could also use the reinforced stretch stitch or a zig zag stitch for this seam.
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Iron the seams to one side or open depending on what type of stitch you used to sew them.
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I decided to top stitch 1/8″ from my seam to echo the top stitching elsewhere on the sweater.  Top stitching looks so nice and crisp on this ponte de roma!
DSC03579 To join the lining and hood together, place these pieces with right sides together.DSC03580

Pin along the long hood edge and stitch using your chosen method (I serged).
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Flip the hood so that right sides are out and line up the rest of the raw edges.  You’ll notice that the hood piece is larger than the lining so make sure to line up the notch at the narrow base of the hood and turn the seam under to the lining side (pictured below).DSC03584 DSC03589

I finished the hood edge by top stitching 3/8″ from the hood edge (the folded fabric – not 3/8″ from the seam, which is folded under).DSC03590

And now it is time to finish the neckline seam.  At this point we will begin stitching using a 3/8″ seam allowance (I explain why at the very beginning of this post).DSC03591

Pin the hood and lining layers together along the entire hood base.  Baste these layers together using a long stitch.  No need to back stitch!DSC03594 DSC03601

As with Variation One, it is now time for a little origami!  For more detailed photos of this folding process, refer to the collar photos earlier in the post.  You will need to place the hood in front of you with the right side visible.  Fold the right end inwards and then fold the left end inwards to stack the narrow collar end on top of the first one.DSC03603

Without changing the hood positioning, place it on top of the sweater Front right side.  Pin the narrow hood ends to the neckline base.  Make sure to line up the notches on the hood with the placement markings on the sweater Front.DSC03606

Stitch along the hood base using a 3/8″ seam allowance – begin and end at the placement markings and notches (3/8″ from either collar edge).DSC03608

Now that the base of the hood is attached, it is necessary to re-position the hood so that it lines up with the sweater neckline.  I do this by grasping the sweater through the loop of the hood (see photo above) and pulling the entire sweater through the hood loop. DSC03611

Now that your sweater is through the hood loop, you’ll be able to shift everything around until all the neckline raw edges of both the hood and sweater are lined up continuously.  Pin everything in place matching the hood notches with the shoulder seams.  Now we are ready to stitch the neckline!  As I mentioned for Variation One, you will want to watch that the sweater fabric at the two front corners is free from your stitching – it is prone to becoming pinched so carefully shift the folds out of the way as you stitch.DSC03613

I stitched my neckline with the serger only – but feel free to use a straight stitch or reinforced straight stitch if you want to be on the careful side (it isn’t much fun to stitch-rip serging if you need to adjust your seam line!).DSC03617

Press your seam allowance towards the sweater.  To continue my theme of top stitching, I top stitched, starting at a shoulder seam, all the way around the neckline.DSC03615

Doesn’t that look nice?  I hope yours does as well!  Join me again on Wednesday when we will apply ribbon or twill tape to our back neckline (exciting!!!) and construct the kangaroo pocket.

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