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Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!


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Waistcoat Sew-Along: Day 12 – The Parade

The Drapery Waistcoat 1

I have a treat for you today – a parade of finished Belvedere Waistcoats!  I hope your waistcoats will be worn to many memorable events this summer!  I know a few of them were sewn for lucky grooms and others were sewn to wear at the local pub.  Maybe others will be given to a deserving Dad this Father’s Day (on Sunday)?

The Drapery Waistcoat 2

The dark grey fabric and luxurious champagne lining used on this waistcoat are a perfect combo of fabrics.  And those welt pockets look very well executed!  This Belvedere was sewn by Jane of The Drapery for her husband, Andy.  She wrote a review on The Drapery blog.

Zaks Belvedere Waistcoat

Next we have a work of art sewn by Zak!  Check out the embroidery and the custom chest pocket!  Plus, I don’t think I need to point out the paisley lining since it is difficult to miss (and matches the embroidery so beautifully).

Belvedere Waistcoat Zak.JPG

Many of you have been sharing your Belvedere photos on Instagram using #belvederewaistcoat  Here are a few of the versions that stood out to me today:

Happy #memademay2017 . Today we have my test version of the #belvederewaistcoat from @threadtheorydesigns made in #conemills selvage denim purchased @stonemountainfabric in #berkeley. We also have the #strathconahenley i made for my hubby last year (also @threadtheorydesigns ) and my super sexy #ddsafran jeans @deer_and_doe_patterns . And of course, underneath it all is my #watsonbra from @clothhabit. All fabric purchased @stonemountainfabric . Vest buttons are new old stock. I made no mods for fit. Size xs worked fine, but I'm not very buxom. The length and waist circumference was perfect for my 5'6" height and athletic build. I usually wear a women's medium and have measurements of 37-30-40. Only pattern mod was adding a belt and buckle to waist darts in back (not pictured here). Mine is non-functional but making it function would solve fit issurs for many women (or busty men). Beautiful pattern. Thank you @threadtheorydesigns for letting me test. #memadeeveryday #makersgonnamake #denimlove #menswear #vintagestyle #indiepatterns #isewmyownclothes #sewist #sewistsofinstagram

A post shared by Yavanna Reynolds (@yavannareynolds) on

To finish off this sew-along parade, Matt photographed me in my new Belvedere standing in front of the garden.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-21

As mentioned before, I did not make the suggested alterations to my waistcoat in order to fit it to a female figure.  I wanted this sample to serve as a visual example to show why making a few simple fit adjustments can lead to a much more flattering waistcoat for women.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-19

The main thing to notice is that smaller armholes are needed.  For me they gape at the front but on other women (depending on your bust size), you may find they gape at the back.  I’ve explained how to adjust the armhole earlier in the blog.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-24

Since I have a pretty small bust measurement I don’t think the gaping is that bad or noticeable.  The main thing I dislike is how low the armhole sits at my underarm.  The next time I sew a Belvedere for myself I will reduce the scoop of the front armhole so that the curve is more shallow and so that the side seam is at least 1″ longer.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-22

I think this waistcoat will be worn often in the Fall despite the fact that it is not perfectly fitted to my figure.  I love how warm the spongy wool is!  It’s satisfying to have a project finished and sitting in my closet a whole season early…that doesn’t happen often.

If ever you would like to share your Belvedere Waistcoat masterpiece, use #belvederewaistcoat on Instagram, join our Facebook Thread Theory Sewing CommunityFacebook Thread Theory Sewing Community, or email me at info@threadtheory.ca

Happy Father’s Day!


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New garment photos for the Parkland Collection

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-10

Have you seen our new Parkland Collection photos yet?  Let me show you!

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-3

We began work on the Parkland Collection over 5 years ago when Thread Theory was still just an exciting idea for Matt and I.  We wanted to create casual menswear sewing patterns that would allow sewists to create the same comfortable and modern styles that they would buy ready made from a shop.

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-1

Since we still stand by that concept of sewing practical garments to fill a man’s daily wardrobe, we figured it was high time to refresh the fabric choices, styling and location of our website photos!  We photographed several examples of the Newcastle Cardigan, Jedediah Pants, Strathcona Henley and Goldstream Peacoat at Rathtrevor park two weeks ago with my Grandpa, Dad and Matt as models.

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-2

I’ve been dying to feature my Grandpa on our website because he has the most wonderfully friendly face you will ever see!

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-4

Plus he looks exceptionally dashing in Variation 2 of our Newcastle Cardigan with the extra large shawl collar.  I sewed this Newcastle from a sage green wool blend knit that I purchased at one of our retailers, the Makehouse, in Victoria, B.C.  It’s thick and cozy but quite breathable so it is a great choice for the fluctuating spring weather that we’ve been having.

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-5

My dad has always been our go-to model since he is so easy to photograph and always willing no matter how uncomfortable photo shoots make him.  I made him a Strathcona T-shirt since he wears out tees at a rapid pace and always needs a fresh one or two in his wardrobe…he’s never been enthusiastic on the idea of changing in to ‘work clothes’ before embarking on a messy project.  I guess I got that trait from him since I have been known to garden in dresses and hike in my favourite blouse!

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-7

This particular Strath Tee is made using our bamboo and cotton stretch jersey which I will ALWAYS stock in our shop in a variety of colourways (as long as it is available for me to purchase).  As I’ve mentioned before, it is my favourite fabric and I happily dress myself head to toe in it!  It’s the perfect combo of silky smooth, extremely strong and fully opaque.  My dad reports that this t-shirt is really comfortable.

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-8

I also made a Strathcona Henley for Matt, this time Variation 1 – the proper Henley.

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-21

He needed a crisp white shirt that could be layered under button-ups or worn on its own.

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-22

The crisp and shockingly white fabric that I used was the 100% cotton jersey t-shirt knit from our shop.  It was very easy to sew for a knit!  It is stable and does not curl and shift very much.  It’s also the exact weight and style of knit that Matt prefers to wear – he tends to choose thin jerseys over plush interlocks for a daily t-shirt.

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-14

To pair with his new Henley, I also sewed Matt his favourite Jedediah shorts.  He has worn a few pairs out now over the years!

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-13

This fresh minty green pair features buffalo check bias binding in navy blue to match some navy blue loafers that he just purchased…I think he’s going to look pretty coordinated this summer. 😉

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-23

While we were at it, I attempted to take some fresh photos of the grey cotton twill Jedediah Pants that I sewed for Matt about three years ago.  They have worn so well and remain a constant in his wardrobe but I have never properly photographed them so I felt they deserved a little bit of attention!

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-25

Here he’s paired them with the white Strath, his favourite Fairfield Button-up and his new navy blue loafers.  It’s a really smart look and I wish I could show you more photos but I am terrible at operating Matt’s camera and missed the focus on all of them. 😦  Next time we do a photoshoot I will try again!

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-9

Last but not least, we took the opportunity to photograph my Dad in the gorgeous Goldstream Peacoat that my mom tailored for him.  She wrote a blog post about her experience sewing this coat three years ago.

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-11

As you can see, her tailoring efforts have held up to a few winters of wear beautifully!

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-12

She purchased the highest end wool she could find at our local fabric store and I think this was a great choice because the Goldstream that I made for Matt around the same time period has long since pilled horribly and headed for the scrap bin.  It was a wool blend with, I think, very little wool actually in it.  I have some gorgeous Pendleton wool cut out for Matt and I REALLY need to make him a Goldstream as smart as my dad’s version!

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-20

Thanks, Dad, Grampie and Matt for handling the pressures of modelling so well!  As many of you who blog your creations must know, it can be a lot more challenging than you might think to remember how to smile (without it appearing as a grimace) or how to hold your hands (without clenching them in to tight fists) after 50 photos have been taken of you!

Parkland Menswear Pattern Collection-6

I think my family did a wonderful job (if I do say so myself) and I am so proud that they wear the garments that I make them with such enthusiasm.

To celebrate these new photos and Father’s Day I’ve put our Parkland Collection on sale!

Head to our shop to purchase any Parkland Collection pattern at 20% off (PDF or tissue pattern!).  Use the discount code: FRESHPARKLAND  The sale expires at the end of Father’s Day Sunday, June 18th.


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Waistcoat Sew-Along: Day 11 – Adding buttons

This marks the final Waistcoat Sew-Along post!  Today you get to try on your finished waistcoat!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-13

All that remains is to sew our buttonholes and stitch on our buttons.  I will run through how to do this as per the instruction booklet but first, based on a few emails from you guys, I’ve assembled ideas to help you avoid buttons…but really, I highly encourage you to try your hand a buttonholes because they aren’t that difficult and are essential for an elegant and classic waistcoat.  As you can see, button alternatives are quite a statement and only work for certain situations:

Buttonless waistcoats

  1. Quilted and Snaps
  2. Leather and Snaps
  3. Wool and Zipper

Another idea is to close the waistcoat with ties or buckles.  I couldn’t find any examples of this style of closure for menswear but I have added our Lazo Trousers buckles to the waistcoat I am making for myself so you can see how this idea could look in reality!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-28

To add regular buttons and buttonholes:

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-1

Begin by refreshing or freshly making your buttonhole markings.  If you are sewing Variation 1 you will be stitching 6 buttonholes and for Variation 2 you will be stitching 5.  This is really a matter of preference though – you could change the spacing of the buttonholes and reduce to three or four if you desired!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-3

The buttonholes will be on the left hand side of the waistcoat (if you were wearing the garment).  You can see I have a stack of examples on my dress form to prove this button and hole placement!  I guess that’s what happens when you sew endless samples for a pattern, you end up with more waistcoats than any one person could wear. 😛

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-2

Position them approximately 3/8″ to 1/2″ from the edge of the waistcoat front…you can choose your distance based on the fit you would like to achieve.  Stitching them closer to the edge of the waistcoat will give your wearer a little bit more room while stitching further from the edge will create a more snug fitting waistcoat.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-4

Choose a buttonhole size that is slightly longer than the diameter of your buttons.  This makes it easy for the wearer to button and unbutton his waistcoat.  Check out this Craftsy article to determine exactly what size of buttonhole you need.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-6

I like to stitch around my buttonholes twice to create tidy and dense rows of stitching…of course, this can really depend on how your individual sewing machine and buttonhole stitching mechanism functions.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-7

Slice open the buttonholes using a seam ripper with pins placed across either end of the buttonhole to prevent your seam ripper from slicing too far.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-9

Alternatively, you can use a buttonhole chisel and cutting board.  You could even snip with delicate buttonhole scissors.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-10

Stitch your buttons on to the right hand side of the waistcoat (if you were wearing the garment) so that they correspond to the buttonholes.  I like to re-check my markings by overlapping the waistcoat fronts and placing a pin through the buttonhole.  This way I can be sure the button will line up perfectly with the hole.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-12

You might like to check out my tutorial about sewing on a button – I explain how to use beeswax to strengthen your thread and how to make a thread shaft for a strong button that is slightly raised from the garment fabric so that it is easy to use.

If you have sewn the tabs on to your waistcoat, add buttonholes to the tabs and then a total of four buttons to the waistcoat back.  Position one set so they match the tab buttonhole without cinching the waistcoat back.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-14

Place the other set so that they cinch the waistcoat back just enough to add some extra shaping.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-16

You can see the cinched version on the left hand side of the photo above and the relaxed version on the right hand side.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-31

And that’s it!  With a final press and perhaps a handstitched label on the back facing, your waistcoat is finished!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-26

I will be sharing a parade of Belvedere Waistcoats on the blog next Friday, June 16th in honour of Father’s Day.  Would you like your Belvedere in the parade?  Email me at info@threadtheory.ca with photos or comment below with a link to your blog, Instagram or Facebook post.  Alternatively, use #belvederewaistcoat on Social Media to share your finished project.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Sew on buttons-32

I can’t wait to see what you have created!  Thanks for sewing along.


On an unrelated note, you may have seen on Facebook that we are hiring! If you follow this blog and live in the Comox Valley, I hope you will consider applying.  Here is the advertisement (click to see the full resolution image):

TT_JobPosting

 


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Waistcoat Sew-Along: Day 10 – Assembling the Back

Today we all but finish our waistcoats!  By the end of this post the back and back lining will be completely attached to the waistcoat fronts so that buttonholes and buttons will be the only remaining step.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-2

Prepare your waistcoat fronts by basting the open shoulder and side seams closed.  This way the layers won’t shift around when you attach the back.

If you have drafted a partial shawl collar as I did in an earlier sew-along post, you will need to fold it over and stitch it in place before attaching your waistcoat back.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-5

My fabric choice is unusually thick, so your collar will look much smoother and more flat when you fold it over.  Do not press the folded roll line (it looks best when it is softly folded), just pin and then stitch the collar in place along the shoulder seam.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-6

I handstitched the collar to the waistcoat front to keep it secure during my next sewing steps…I plan to take out this stitching once the waistcoat is finished, I just did this to reduce the bulk of the collar and maintain the shape of the collar even when the waistcoat is crumpled up and being pulled through the hem hole later (you’ll see what I mean in a bit!).

Also, I didn’t mention this during the post where we drafted the collar or where we understitched along the waistcoat front: You might like to stop your understitching just below your last button and leave the neckline without understitching.  When you fold over the collar the facing becomes the visible part of the collar so your understitching is front and centre!  The understitching also prevents the seam from being pressed slightly to the underside of the collar (in fact, it encourages the seam to roll towards the facing which makes it more visible.  If I were to sew another vest with this style of collar I would make sure to stop my understitching before the top button.  As it is, this chunky wool waistcoat will have other visible topstitching (on the tabs and at the armholes) so hopefully the understitching doesn’t look too out of place.  I’m sorry if you now have to pick out some unwanted understitching, I should have thought to mention this sooner!

Ok, with the collar ready to go, let’s move on to another feature I’ve added to the waistcoat I am sewing for myself – the tabs found in our free add-on pattern pieces.  Scroll down until you see the pinstriped waistcoat if you have not chosen to add these tabs.

Place each pair of tabs with right sides together and stitch around the long and pointed edges.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-7

Trim the seam allowances and corners thoroughly.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-8

Flip the tabs right side out.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-9

Press them thoroughly and topstitch around the perimeter (I used 1/4″ topstitching but it is up to you what you use!).  You could skip topstitching for a clean finish if you preferred.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-10

Place the tabs on the waistcoat back at the narrowest point of the waist.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-11

Baste them in place within the seam allowance.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-13

Now you are ready to proceed with adding the waistcoat back to the fronts as per the instruction booklet!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-29

Lay the waistcoat back (not the back lining) on your work surface right side up.  Lay the fronts on top of the back so that right sides are together.  Pin along the shoulder and side seams.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-30

Baste along the shoulder and side seams using a scant 5/8″ seam allowance.  Now is a perfect time to try the waistcoat on the wearer to check for fit!  If you notice gaping along the back armhole you can experiment by taking in the shoulder or side seam.  If you notice more or less room is needed at the waist (with the fronts pinned closed) you can take in our let out the side seam.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-31

With any small fit adjustments done, it is now time to add on the back lining!  Place the waistcoat back on to your work surface so the wrong side of your fronts are visible.  Lay the back lining on top so that the wrong side is facing up.  Pin along the shoulder seams, the neckline and the side seams.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-33

Stitch the shoulder, neckline and side seams by following your basting stitches.  To stitch the shoulders and neckline, begin by stitching one shoulder seam towards the neckline.  Stop when you feel the neckline edge of your waistcoat front.  Pivot your needle and stitch around the back neckline.  Pivot once again when you feel the second waistcoat front edge and then finish by stitching along the second shoulder seam.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-34

The only remaining openings are now the armholes and the hem.  Pin the back and lining armhole seams together.  You will need to shift the waistcoat fronts out of the way and stretch out the larger back armholes.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-35

Stitch the armholes from shoulder seam to side seam.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-36

The armholes feature a strong curve so it is necessary to clip these seam allowances carefully.  You should also clip the neckline seam allowances to help this curve sit nicely when the waistcoat is flipped right side out.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-37

Now the only step remaining is to stitch the hem.  We will be leaving a gap between one of the darts and the centre back seam so that the waistcoat can be flipped right side out.  Stitch from one side seam to the dart and backstitch.  Stitch from the other side seam to the centre back and backstitch.  If you are working with unusually thick fabrics you may need to leave a larger opening than this.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-38

Trim the hem seam allowances and corners.  Now fish the entire waistcoat through that hole and press the side seams, neckline, shoulder seams, armholes and hem thoroughly!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-40

Close up the hem by hand.  And while you do so, you may find that your carefully pressed waistcoat has become a cat bed (it seems as though she can sense when I’m going to be standing still and hand stitching for a while).

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Assemble the Back-42

Now, we’re ready to add the buttonholes to the waistcoat front, the corresponding buttons and perhaps a label to the neckline!


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Waistcoat Sew-Along: Day 9 – Finishing the Front

Today we will be attaching the lining and facing to the Belvedere Waistcoat fronts.  If you are sewing Variation 1, the first step is to create the side seam vents.  These vents can actually be added to either variation if you would like a little bit more room for movement.  The vent expands to create a larger circumference around the stomach while you sit, bend or simply have a full belly after a large meal!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-1

Begin by cutting a small rectangle of fusible interfacing measuring approximately 2″ X 3″.  Apply this to the wrong side of the lining at the bottom of each side seam.  This will help add rigidity to the lining fabric so that the vent appears crisp and flat when finished.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-2

Pin the waistcoat front to the lining with right sides together.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-3

Beginning at the side seam notch, stitch across the 5/8″ seam allowance.  When you get to the seamline, place your needle down in to the fabric and pivot around it.  Stitch an angled line towards the hem notch.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-5

Trim along your stitching so seam allowances are 1/4″ or less to reduce bulk.  Clip up to your stitching at the corner.
Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-6

Regardless of whether you are sewing Variation 1 or 2, it is now time to sew the hem, front and neckline seams.  If you have added the vent, begin stitching at the hem notch.  If you have not added the vent, begin stitching at the side seam.  Stitch along the hem, pivot at the angled point and then stitch up the front until you reach the shoulder.

To prevent the lining and facing from rolling to the right side when your waistcoat is worn, understitch as far as possible along the hem and front.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-8

To understitch, work from the right side of the garment and stitch the facing and lining to the seam allowance.  Your stitching should be 1/8″ from your original seam.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-10

It won’t be possible to understitch around the angled point at the hem.  Simply stitch as far as possible and backstitch.  Then you can continue a new line of understitching along the hem.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-13

Trim one seam allowance shorter than the other and thoroughly clip in to the seam allowance along curves.  Also clip across corners to reduce bulk.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-11

Next we will close up the armhole.  With raw edges of the fabric even and right sides together, pin the front and lining together along the curve of the armhole.  Match the dart.  Depending on the fabrics that you are using, you may notice that the lining has stretched out or that your wool front has shrunk during the sewing process.  Not to worry!  Lay out the lining so that it flat and equal in size (or slightly smaller) than the waistcoat front.  Trim off the 1/8″ or so excess along the curve of the armhole.  This will help to prevent the lining from peeking out on the right side of the waistcoat at the armhole.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-14

Stitch the armhole curve using a 5/8″ seam allowance.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-15

It is necessary to thoroughly trim the seam allowances and clip in to the curves since the armhole curve is so exaggerated.  These clips will allow the fabric to sit smoothly when the garment is flipped right side out.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-17

And now it is time!  Let’s flip the waist coat front right side out!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-18

Do this by reaching in to the open side seam.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-20

Now give the front a very thorough press.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-21

Are you proud of how beautiful your finished front looks?  I hope so!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Front Lining-22

Tomorrow we will add on the back and our waistcoats will be VERY close to finished!


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Waistcoat Sew-Along: Day 8 – Welt Pockets (or add alternative patch pockets)

Today we add the welt pockets to our waistcoat fronts or, if you are sewing variation 2 with no packets, you can sit back and relax!  At the end of this post I will show you how to create the rounded corner patch pocket that I created as a free pattern download to add on to the Belvedere.  There are two patch pocket shapes available in the download and they feature the same construction methods.

If you have been attempting to follow along with the sew-along schedule, I apologise for the adjustments I have been making to it over the last two weeks!  I had been trying to adjust by one day maximum so you wouldn’t be left twiddling your thumbs while you waited for me but I simply couldn’t fit everything in last week and had to delay Friday’s post until today.  I hope this didn’t upset your plans for the weekend!  On the bright side, delaying the sew-along allowed me to complete brand new samples for the entire Parkland Collection of patterns!  We had a wonderful photoshoot on Sunday with my parents and grandparents so there will be some fresh garments and photos for you to view on our website once Matt has finished editing them!

Ok, let’s move on to our welt pockets:

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-1

We will be using the templates, the welts, pocket facings and pocket bags.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-3

During an earlier sew-along post we marked our welt placement on the waistcoat fronts.  You might need to refresh your chalk lines if they became worn while you sewed the darts – do so by placing the templates on the right side of your waistcoat front and tracing around them.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-4

Cut open the window in the welt pattern piece (just cut the paper, do not cut your fabric pieces!).  This will allow you to trace the welt outline on to the wrong side of the welt fabric.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-6

Place the welt and waistcoat front with right sides together.  Align your markings by poking through your welt fabric with pins at each corner and/or lift up the welt edges to peek at the markings below:

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-7

If you are attempting to pattern match stripes, it is important to be very finicky with your welt placement.  I’ve always been quite terrible at matching stripes but this is how I try to do so:

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-8

I pin my piece in place and fold down the fabric along the seamline to see if the stripes continue along the seam without breaking…of course, it is necessary to stitch very accurately to ensure this remains the case!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-9

Now that your welt pieces are pinned to the waistcoat front, prepare your sewing machine by reducing the stitch length so that it is quite short.  This short stitch length will slow you down to ensure that you stitch accurately and it will also make your pocket corners stronger.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-10

Stitch along the two long sides of the welt rectangle.  Try your best to begin and end your stitching exactly at the rectangle corners.  If you stop to early or extend your stitching too far your finished welt may pucker or refuse to sit squarely later on.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-11Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-13

After stitching I like to do some preemptive pressing to make things easier on myself later on.  The more pressing you do at this point, the easier it will be to press the welt in to shape later.  Begin by pressing the top of the welt down:

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-14

And then press the bottom of the welt up:

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-15

Now comes the slightly intimidating part…it is time to cut through all layers of your fabric to create windows in your waistcoat front!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-16

Cut through the middle of the welt by poking your holes through the center and snipping towards either edge.  Stop about 1/2″ before the end of the welt and snip two diagonal lines to create a “Y”.  Cut very precisely so that the points of the “Y” end exactly at each backstitch.  Again, precision here will lead to a nicely shaped welt without any puckering.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-18

Now that the welt window has been opened, it is possible to push the welt fabric through your slice so that it is on the wrong side of the waistcoat front:

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-20Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-21Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-22Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-23

Flip your waistcoat front to the wrong side so that you are once again looking at your welt:

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-24

It’s time to do some more pressing!  Can you tell how important pressing is to create a professional looking welt?  It is essential!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-25Underneath the lower part of your welt you will see two seam allowances.  Press these open.

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This helps to reduce bulk and allow the bottom of the welt to appear crisp.

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Press the top and the two narrow sides of the welt along the seamline but do not press the bottom any more.

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At this point you will have a crisp open window on your waistcoat front.  We are now ready to fill it with the welt!

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Fold the bottom of the welt upward to cover the open window and then fold downward again so that the raw edge is once again pointing towards the waistcoat hem:

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Press the welt so that the fold sits evenly along the top of the window:

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From the right side of the waistcoat your welt will appeal almost finished!

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To secure the sides of the welt, fold back the waistcoat front to reveal the welt seam allowance and a tiny triangle of fabric that you created when you cut the “Y” earlier.

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Stitch through the triangle and seam allowances:

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Repeat this step for the other side of the welt.

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When stitching these triangles in place it is important to ensure they are pulled taught but do not pull too hard.  As you can see on my chest pocket, I pulled the triangle too far to the left which caused the grainline of my welt to become slightly skewed.  The stripes are perfectly pattern matched along the bottom of the pocket but then they are pulled to the left near the top of the pocket…woops!

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Now that the welt is complete (congratulations!), it is time to attach the pocket bag.  Place the pocket bag on top of the welt with the right side of the pocket bag facing the wrong side of the waistcoat.  The bag should be upside down so that the straight edge is lined up with the bottom of the welt.

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Stitch the pocket bag to the bottom of the welt – I like to place the waistcoat on my sewing machine with the right side up and the front folded out of the way so that the welt seam allowance is visible.

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Press the pocket bag down so that it sits in its final position:

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Lay the pocket facings on top of the pocket bags and pin them to the welt and pocket bag seam allowances (don’t catch the waistcoat front with your pins).

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Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket facing using a 5/8″ seam allowance (you do not need to be precise with your seam allowance here, as long as you are closing up the sides and bottom of the pocket so that your phone and change can’t fall out!).

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The top of the pocket bag is still completely open.  To close this up, lay your waistcoat with the right side facing you and fold the waistcoat down out of the way.  This will expose the welt seam allowance and the top of the pocket bag:

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Stitch through all layers (but not the waistcoat front):Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-48

You are left with a fully closed pocket bags and three finished welt pockets!

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Give them one more press from the right side of the waistcoat front to make them appear as flat and crisp as possible.  And now give yourself a pat on the back!


 

If you would like to add our free patch pocket pieces to your waistcoat front for a more casual look, here is how to do so:

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Place your pockets and linings with right sides together.  Pin across the top of the pocket and stitch using a 5/8″ seam allowance.  Leave a gap in the middle (backstitch either side of this gap), so that you can use it to flip the pocket right side out later.

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Pull the pocket lining downward so that it is even with the bottom of the pocket.  Press along the notched fold line at the top of the pocket.

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Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket using a 5/8″ seam allowance:

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Clip triangles out of the seam allowances along the curved bottom corners.

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If you are working with fairly thick fabric, thoroughly trim all seam allowances to reduce bulk as much as possible.

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Flip the pockets right side out through the hole that you left in the lining.  Press the pockets thoroughly.

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Handstitch the hole in the lining closed.Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Welt Pockets-59

Determine the position of your patch pockets by using the welt pocket markings as a guide.  I like to hold the waistcoat front up to the wearer and pick a position that suits the wearer best.  Keep in mind that your pockets will look best if the grainline matches the waistcoat front – this means that the front edge of the pocket should be parallel to the waistcoat centre front.

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Stitch the pockets in place using topstitching or you can opt to invisibly handstitch them from a clean and minimalist look.

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It’s as easy as that!

During our next post we will be finishing the waistcoat fronts by attaching the lining.  I find that to be a very satisfying step so I’m looking forward to it!