As promised, here is my contribution to the ongoing Lazo Hack contest. I’ve made a few simple adjustments to the Lazo Trousers pattern to produce elastic waist joggers with a satin ribbon drawstring!
While working on these joggers last night I snapped a few pictures to create a tutorial for you. I’ll show you how to adjust the front waistband so that it is one piece, switch the fly from functioning to a mock fly, and add elastic and buttonholes for a drawstring. You can hem the trousers as per normal or you can add some narrow cuffs at the ankle as I did.
(Velvet jogger inspiration from Anthropologie. I love the tassel drawstring!)
Transforming the Lazos into joggers is a VERY simple hack that could work for both woven and knit fabrics. Any woven fabric that you might choose for a regular pair of Lazos will work for these joggers (chambray tencel or velvet would be awesome!). If you want some jogger inspiration, here is a good series of styled images. I’m probably a bit late to the jogger trend (I think it began in 2014) but I’ve never really adhered to trends anyways, I just choose my clothing based on my current lifestyle and mood.
Ok, let’s convert the Lazos to joggers:
Begin by selecting and altering your pattern pieces. The only pattern piece you do not need to use is the Zipper Shield.
The only pattern piece you need to change is the Waistband Front – simply fold under the extension at the notches and cut the waistband on the fold (just like you cut the back waistband). There is no need to cut interfacing pieces for the waistband or fly.
Assemble the trousers as per the instructions all the way up to the Fly Front section. If you are working with a knit, you might like to use a stretch stitch or a serger so that your seams are not at risk of snapping when the fabric stretches.
To create the mock fly finish the seat seam as instructed. Next, sew the inseam, but instead of stopping just below the zipper placement notch, ignore the curved fly facing and stitch in a straight line all the way up to the fly facing notch (which is the centre front of the pants). If you prefer to leave off the fly altogether (perhaps you would like to insert a side seam invisible zipper instead), you can trim off the fly facings. To sew the mock fly, press the facings towards the right side of the trousers (if you were wearing them).
On the right side of the trousers, topstitch as you would normally to give the illusion of a functioning fly.
Now we are ready to assemble the waistband! If you would like to add a drawstring later, now is the time to add buttonholes to your waistband front. Apply a small square of interfacing to the centre of the waistband on the wrong side of the fabric. This will help to stabilise the fabric when you sew your buttonholes and it will make your buttonholes less likely to become misshapen with use.
To position your buttonholes, fold the waistband front in half and measure in from the fold 1/2″. Place a pin through both layers of fabric and then mark the pin’s position with chalk (preferably on the wrong side of the fabric so that you don’t have to wash out your chalk as I did! Sorry for the wet waistband later on in the post…I was on a roll while I was sewing and didn’t want to stop to wait for the fabric to dry!).
I chose to add 1/2″ buttonholes but you can add whatever size you prefer based on the drawstring that you choose.
Now place the waistband front and back with right sides together and sew the side seams. Repeat this step for the waistband facings (the second set of waistband pieces).
You now have two waistband loops. Place these with right sides together and sew along the entire top edge. By the way, at this point it would be easy to make your waistband shorter by simply chopping off the top of the waistband before you sew the two loops together. You could choose to match the width of elastic you plan to use for instance. I left my waistband the full height because I wanted them to be high rise trousers. Centring the 2″ elastic within the waistband resulted in a bit of a paper-bag silhouette. If your waistband does not extend above the elastic your trousers will not have a ruffled top edge as mine do.
You might like to understitch along the top of the waistband to prevent the facing from rolling outwards.
Attach the waistband to the trousers while keeping the waistband facing free. Place the waistband and trousers with right sides together. Make sure to centre your buttonholes over the seat seam and align your side seams.
Press the seam allowances towards the waistband and then press the waistband facing downwards to enclose all of the raw edges. You can either finish the waistband facing edge at this point or you can press under the seam allowance for a very tidy look. I left my serged edge visible because my fabric is pretty bulky so I didn’t want to add another layer of fabric.
Pin the waistband facing in place carefully. I would highly recommend basting it in place so that you don’t have to worry about it shifting during the next step!
From the right side of the trousers, start 1″ away from one of the side seams and stitch in the ditch all the way around the waistband. Finish your stitching 1″ away from the same side seam so that you are left with a 2″ opening at the bottom of the waistband facing. You will use this opening to insert the elastic.
Circle elastic around your waist to find the perfect fit. I circled mine at my natural waist but if you have shortened your waistband to fit your elastic width, circle your elastic a couple of inches below your natural waist since the trousers will now sit lower. Remember to include some extra elastic so that you can overlap the ends later to create a loop!
Thread the elastic into the opening using a safety pin. Once both ends are pulled out of the opening check that the elastic is not twisted within the waistband and then overlap the ends and stitch them together.
Close the elastic within the waistband by stitching in the ditch over the 2″ hole.
Try on your Lazos to check the length of the hem (and to admire how they look!). Hem them in the style that you choose (a regular hem, a wide cuff or a narrow ribbed cuff like mine).
Now you have several options to prevent your elastic from shifting around in the waistband. The simplest option is to distribute the fabric nicely around the elastic (while you are wearing the trousers) and then place a pin through the side seams and elastic. Stitch in the ditch of the side seam to secure the elastic in place.
To create the paper bag waist and more thoroughly secure your elastic in place, you can toptstitch along both the top and bottom of the elastic around the entire waistband.
Now all you need to do is thread a drawstring through the buttonholes using the same safety pin technique is before and your joggers are complete!
I hope you like my fresh interpretation of the Lazos Trousers! Have you tried hacking them yet or do you prefer to sew them as is?
Edit Jan 25th: Some of you asked me to model these Lazos for you – here I am in my jammies 😉 They look pretty cozy eh?
To finish off Friday in a happy sort of way, let’s do the third Lazo Hack contest draw! Today’s winner is Meg (@madebymegblog)! Check out the awesome way she styled her Lazos.
The rolled hems and boot combo is really wearable and cute! Congrats Meg, your use of #lazotrousers has won you $25 to Blackbird Fabrics. Thanks for sharing!
I will draw the last Lazo Hack prize on Friday, Jan. 27th. The winner will get to choose which goodies (from our shop) they would like me to fill this sewing caddy with – up to a $100 value!
You have 7 days to take a photo of your Lazos whether they are still a work in progress or finished and share them on Instagram or Facebook using #lazotrousers.
Download your Lazo pattern >