Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!

New Pattern: Meet the Fairfield Button-up Shirt


Introducing Fairfield Button-up

I’m really excited to share with you our brand new menswear pattern!

Fairfield Buttonup 2

The Fairfield Button-up Shirt is a classic menswear staple with a modern fit and a great selection of design details.  We haven’t cut any corners here – your finished project will be just as finely sewn as any shirt you find in a menswear shop!


The Design:

Fairfield Buttonup Illustrations

The Fairfield features a modern narrow collar complete with a collar stand.  This collar style is a great neutral design that looks neither excessively trendy or dated.


The shirt includes a built-on button placket at center front.  Built-on plackets make for less bulky seam allowances to trim and for easier pattern matching when sewing with plaids and prints.


We’ve included a nicely shaped pocket design to add to the left chest.

Fairfield Buttonup 1

To fit the back of the shirt you can choose between a small pleat for a little bit of wearing ease…

Fairfield Buttonup-29

…or you can sew the shaped darts to create a smart form-fitting shirt


Both variations include a yoke and yoke facing so that all shoulder seams are enclosed.

The sleeves are moderately slim and feature a proper tower placket – something that is very hard to find on most shirt patterns and that I feel is an essential element of a menswear button-up!


The sleeves also include the option for interior tabs that can be used to keep the rolled sleeves in place at the elbow.

Fairfield Buttonup-22

The cuffs feature a very slightly rounded corners for added interest.


The shirt hem is curved just enough to allow the shirt to be worn both tucked in or untucked depending on the fabric choice (dressy or very casual).

Fairfield Buttonup-28

The Sizing:

Now that we’ve addressed all the design features, let’s talk about who this pattern we’ll fit!

We’ve expanded our size range to extend to 4XL.  You can see the complete size chart as the last product image on our website.

Our pattern includes two separate pattern files: One drafted for average figures and one for larger figures.  The size ranges overlap so that you can choose which proportions you would like to work with based on the wearer’s body measurements and the measurements of their favorite shirt.

The pattern drafted for larger figures accommodates a rounded stomach and/or wide waist measurement.

I’ve included a new detailed page within our instruction booklet that I will likely add to all of our patterns from now on – it explains which the most important measurements are and how to take them.

The Extras:

We have all sorts of extras lined up for this pattern!

First of all, we’ve created a new Quick Reference Guide to accompany the instruction booklet.  This is a one page set of brief instructions that you can have by your sewing machine once the Fairfield has become your tried and true button-up.  You won’t need the long booklet and illustrations any more; all that you’ll need are subtle reminders of the sewing process and seam allowances.  The Quick Reference Guide will provide those at a glance!

Secondly, we have free Add-on pattern pieces!  When I asked you which design features you wanted to add to your button-up shirt projects you enthusiastically responded with MANY ideas.  It was wonderful to have such a rich and varied checklist to work with while designing this pattern!

I didn’t want to add the huge array of design features to the base pattern because this would create an overwhelmingly large and complicated pattern and set of instructions.  Instead, I’ve created the base Fairfield pattern and have also created a great selection of free “Add Ons” that we will be rolling out over the coming weeks.

Stay tuned for:

  • Some very trendy collar styles
  • A variety of cuff shapes
  • A few pocket choices
  • Short sleeves

These “Add Ons” will be added to our shop as free products (just like our Arrowsmith Undershirt pattern).  When you download them you receive the PDF pattern file and the instructions for these specific pattern pieces.

The Sew-Along:

We will be hosting a Fairfield Button-up Sew-along beginning May 16th!  If you follow along with the sew-along schedule you will have plenty of time to finish a button-up shirt as a gift for your dad this Father’s Day!  I will post more details about the sew-along schedule in a few days so that you can begin to prepare.  I’m looking forward to sewing with you again!

What about the Tissue Pattern?

As with most of our pattern releases, the Fairfield is only available as a PDF pattern right now.  We like to save up the proceeds from the PDF sales to pay for the printing costs of the tissue pattern.

As always, if you really want to start sewing the Fairfield but prefer to own a tissue pattern, you can purchase the PDF pattern for now and then have the full cost of the PDF refunded at the time of the Tissue Pattern launch.  To receive the refund, wait until Tissue Pattern launch day and email us with your PDF pattern attached or your PDF pattern order number.  In exchange we will send you a discount code to use towards your Tissue Pattern purchase.

Also in the Shop:

I’ve compiled all of my favorite shirt making tools, notions and fabrics and added them to our shop!

We have everything from delicious Hemp & Organic Cotton Shirting to a sewing gauge designed to make spacing button holes a snap.  Here’s a peek at what’s in store.  I will post about these items in more detail in a separate post so that you can get acquainted with them!

Shirtmaking Supplies

Time to start sewing button-ups!  Head to our shop to check out the pattern and all of the shirtmaking supplies >


27 thoughts on “New Pattern: Meet the Fairfield Button-up Shirt

  1. Pingback: Sew Fashionable 05/08/16 - SewsNBows

  2. Pingback: Fairfield shirt toile – number 1 | DIY wardrobe

  3. Pingback: PDF sewing patterns – copyshop or print at home? | DIY wardrobe

  4. I am thrilled to see the expanded sizing!!! Yay!

  5. I have made 19 casual mens button downs- all from McCalls 6044… I am SO ready to have a new mens shirt pattern and this one looks perfect! My brother, my son, my daughters BF, and all my nephews are going to be thrilled!

  6. This is awesome. I made a shirt for my BF with a “full belly adjustment” that I concocted. It worked but it added a very feminine swing to the shirt.

  7. Awesome! Excited to see this post in my reader today – I really like the detailing.

  8. I can’t wait to make one of these for my husband. I love the look of the soft linen. It would be so nice and cool in the summer and soft for hanging around on the the weekend. Any chance you guys might be planning a dress pants pattern to go with this? Finding pants my husband likes in fabrics he enjoys wearing is always an awful quest. I’d love to have a nice base pattern to work from instead.

    • I love the soft casual look too! The fabric is actually a hemp and organic cotton blend but has a similar feel and look to linen. We stock it in our store but we are currently waiting for a new shipment because it sold out in the first day! We will eventually release men’s dress pants but haven’t started research on this yet. The new Cityscape Collection wouldn’t be complete without a dress pants pattern though! 🙂 Next up for this collection is a waistcoat pattern!

  9. Sounds terrific! You’ve thought of so many fantastic details and ideas to make it great for so many guys. Great work 🙂

  10. This is wonderful news! Since we moved to Spain my boyfriend has problems finding shirts his size, since he’s very tall but thin. We’ll be making this!

  11. Beautiful shirt, Morgan! Put me on the list for a paper pattern!


  12. This pattern looks really great. I have a McCall’s pattern that my husband likes the fit of, but it doesn’t have a yoke or proper sleeve placket, so I’m happy to see them on this pattern rather than drafting them myself! I also like the addition of the tabs to keep rolled sleeves up, he uses those on some store-bought shirts, but it never occurred to me to add them to his shirt. I will definitely be joining you for the Father’s Day sew along!

    • I used to sew that same pattern for Matt – in fact, my love of sewing for men stemmed from producing some great shirts from that pattern! The idea to begin Thread Theory stemmed from the fact that even my favorite shirt pattern didn’t have all of the details that Matt wanted in a shirt. So you could say that Thread Theory began due to both a love and frustration with M6044 😀

  13. Wonderful! I’m so happy you guys released a button-up pattern! Just finished my order 🙂

  14. Wonderful!! Love this idea of a base pattern and on-demand variations! I would love to try this one for my man! A men’s shirt is my secret project and also my biggest sewing fear!!

  15. I have been holding off on purchasing a men’s button up pattern when I discovered you guys more than a year ago hoping you’d release one! I am so incredibly excited. This may be a hair above my comfort level (as I sew knits) but know your directions will be fantastic. Thank you!

    • You can do it! We’ll be going over all the details and tips in our sew-along so you can refer to those posts soon for any spots that are giving you trouble.

  16. Just ordered my copy (have to keep my TT pattern collection complete!) and plan on sewing along. I am so looking forward to sewing up this shirt. Just finished a Camas Cardi for my daughter last week. She loves it! Thank you for your great patterns!!

  17. Once again a winner!! I don’t think you missed anything on the collective wish list. I checked this AM but had to go out for a bit, missed out on that lovely fabric:( Fortunately I do have some perfect cotton on from The Patch waiting to fulfill its destiny 🙂 Do hope you restock for second in queue.

    • We’ll have the fabric in stock (and more colour options!) very soon! I will be placing the order tomorrow. That’s great that you have some nice cotton ready to go. Glad to hear that the Patch is still going strong!

  18. I’m so excited to see this pattern, I can’t wait to sew up a couple! I have a couple of questions though. Regarding the sizing, I’m a little confused about how the M-4X sizing works, as they’re still marked as S – XXL? I mean I see that the numbers change, I’m just curious about the labeling. Also what are the neck band sizes? I’d really like to sew a custom shirt for my husband who has a very large neck, so I need to know which neck size to pick, then grade the body down to his real size. Thanks!

    • Good eye! Thanks for pointing the typo out in the table – the headings should read M to 4XL! We have told our graphic designer and she will be revising it shortly. All of the measurements in the table are correct though. We’ve asked her to try to fit in the neck band measurements while she is at it – they are included within the instruction booklet but did not get added to this info image.

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