Thread Theory

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Waistcoat Sew-Along: Day 7 – Assemble the Lining

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Today is a fairly quick step in the sewing process but it is one that can cause a bit of confusion for people who are not familiar with working with facings paired with a lined garment.  These photos should make the process quite clear!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-84

Begin by stitching the centre back seam on both the back and back lining.  Place each set of backs with right sides together, pin and stitch the curved seam using a 5/8″ seam allowance.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-85

Since the centre back seam features a curve it is necessary to clip in to the seam allowances so that they can spread open and lay flat when you press the seam.  When working with delicate lining fabrics be careful not to clip too close to the stitching or snag your fabric as you may cause a run or hole.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-87

Press the seam allowances open.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-90

From the right side of the waistcoat back and back lining, examine the curved seam to make sure it has been pressed nicely and no creases or puckers are visible (touch it up with the iron a little if necessary).Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-91

Now let’s attach the facings to the front lining!  We will be sewing two opposite curves together which can be a little bit finicky.Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-92

Pin thoroughly.  I like to match the two sets of notches first, place pins at each notch and then work towards the shoulder seam and hem.  I place my final pins between the two sets of notches.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-95

Stitch the seam using a 5/8″ seam allowance.  Since this is a very pronounced curve you will need to clip in to your seam allowances thoroughly.  I like to make triangular clips on the facing first.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-96

And next I make triangular clips on the lining.  Stagger your triangles so that the lining and facing seam allowances are never cut in the same spot – this allows your seam to remain strong.

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Press the seam allowances towards the lining.  I prefer to press from the right side of the fabric.

This is what the pressed seam will look like from the wrong side:

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Now we must sew the back facing to the back lining.

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Begin by staystitching along the back lining neckline using a scant 5/8″ seam allowance.  Staystitching prevents this curve from stretching out when you are sewing it to the facing and also allows you to clip the seam allowance so that you can relax the curve:

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-103

Pin the back facing to the back lining with right sides together.

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At first glance it may look like the back facing is way too long to match the curve of the lining neckline, don’t worry, they are exactly the same length along the seamline!  The 5/8″ seam allowance and opposing curves create this optical illusion.  I like to begin by pinning the back facing and lining together at centre back.  I then pin in each direction towards the shoulder seam.Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-105

You can see that it is necessary to straighten out the concave curve of the lining.  Good thing we clipped the seam allowances to make this possible!

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-106Begin stitching at one shoulder seam and work towards the other.  If you are a bit nervous about stitching this curved seam you can start at centre back and work towards either shoulder seam in the same manner that you pinned.  This way you are breaking the long curve in to two smaller and more manageable curves.

Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-109

And here is what your finished seam will look like!Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-110

Clip in to the facing seam allowance to allow it to relax.Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat Sewalong Tailoring-111

Press the seam allowance towards the lining.

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Now you can set aside your assembled lining pieces since on Friday we will be working with the waistcoat fronts once again as we add our pockets.

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4 thoughts on “Waistcoat Sew-Along: Day 7 – Assemble the Lining

  1. Ok! I’m ready for the next step! I’ve been using burgundy thread for the lining and pack parts and sand thread for the front parts (because my main fabric is your hemp khaki fabric). Thanks for the tutorial!

    • Great job paying such attention to detail with your threads! I haven’t done so with my sew-along samples because a contrast thread shows up better in photos (or perhaps that is only partially the reason and laziness may also factor in :P).

  2. Crystal clear!

  3. Pingback: Waistcoat Sew-Along: Day 1 – Supplies | Thread Theory

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