Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!

The comfiest jeans ever!


GingerJeans-42 I made Ginger Jeans!  For years I have maintained that I’m not a ‘jeans person’ and often wear dresses or leggings and tunics rather than some form of trousers.  This denim avoidance hasn’t been for style reasons but is instead based on comfort.  I’ve bought and sewn quite a selection of jeans over the last five years but have found every single pair to be horribly uncomfortable.  I get stuck at either end of the denim spectrum – too rigid and restricting or too stretchy and droopy.  It would way rather wear a comfortable dress with the waistband sitting at the natural waist than get a stomach ache and claustrophobia due to a low rise  denim waistband that digs in.  And I much prefer the maintenance free feeling of a tunic and leggings to constantly stopping to pull up saggy jeggings!


Well, I am happy to report that I am now a convert to high-waist jeans thanks to Heather Lou and Variation B of the Ginger Jeans pattern!  Sallie- Oh’s version was a definite source of persuasion as well.    The waistband sits at my natural waist and doesn’t slip down or dig in – in fact, the waistband actually feels more comfortable than the elastic waistband on my favorite pair of leggings.  I was nervous that high-waist jeans might make me look like a mom from the 80s but in the end, I wear most of my tops untucked so it is impossible to tell that the pants underneath extend to the waist.


Even if I were to wear a shorter top, I am pretty satisfied with how the high waist gives my short legs the illusion of length.


Moving on from the waistband of these jeans, I am very happy with how they fit throughout the rest of the seat and legs.


I made a lot of changes to the pattern to get this fit but expected I would be doing this due to the fact that my hips are pretty narrow and there is a big difference in measurement between the widest point of my hips and the narrowest point of my waist (I guess all of this difference is near the center back).  This meant I had to adjust the yoke by taking a very large wedge out of center back (Heather explains how to do this very clearly).  I ended up removing about 1 1/2″ from CB and am thrilled with how nicely the shape of the yoke matches my body!


I also removed almost all of the curve at the hips, tapering down to the knees.  I made these changes directly to my fabric pieces after basting them together as drafted.  I knew all my changes would be to make the pants narrower and so I wasn’t worried about the inability to add fabric.


The fabric itself is absolutely gorgeous and it was bought from the discount table at Atex Designer Fabrics in Vancouver.  I am not sure what weight this denim is but it is heavier than I have seen locally and it is extremely soft.  The spandex content is fairly low compared to denims that I have used for stretch jeans in the past (sorry I don’t have specific information, I didn’t keep the tag!).  I am hoping that the weight of this fabric paired with this pretty low spandex content will help the jeans retain their shape over time…I really dislike baggy knees!


I used our gunmetal Jeans & Pants Essential Notions Kit to finish off the pants – the silver button and gunmetal rivets look really nice with the black denim.  I’ll be applying Otter Wax to these jeans now that ‘before’ photos are taken because who can resist black waxed skinny jeans!  One of our new large sized Otter Wax bars should be more than enough for this pair of pants (I bet I’ll have enough left over for a dopp kit or to touch up Matt’s waxed Jutlands).  I’ll show you the ‘after’ photos once they are ready!



Now that I have my first pair of Gingers complete, I’m getting closer to completing my spring wardrobe – I have more denim on order from Fancy Tiger for a pair of blue jeans and will then embark on a couple Archer Button-ups as well as the Chambray skirt that I have planned.  I am already happily wearing my Coppélia Cardigans regularly as you can see in all of the above photos – such a cute, quick and easy pattern to sew!



I’ve completed all the Watson bra and underwear sets that I had planned (will blog soon!) as well as a big load of Lazo Trousers that I will blog about when the pattern is released.  The last item on my list will be a Nettie or two for layering – though I may get distracted by some By Hand London floral Kim dresses for a while!



Maintaining an impossibly long list of inspiring sewing projects puts me in such a creatively fulfilled state of mind.  I find that the emptier my project and ideas list is, the more ‘listless’ I feel! *pun intended*


50 thoughts on “The comfiest jeans ever!

  1. This post is close to 4 years old, but I’ve just re-stumbled upon your site while searching for pants ideas for myself. Was hoping for a women’s version of the Jutland or similar work pant, but these jeans are gorgeous and may have inspired me to give denim a try! Unfortunately the Ginger Jeans link is broken–it looks like Closet Case has revamped their file structure and quite a few of the links to their own patterns on their site are broken as well.

    • Thanks for letting me know! I’ll update the links in this post! I hope you enjoy sewing the Gingers! Closet Case files has a variety of other jean styles available now too so be sure to check those out (perhaps the boyfriend style jeans could be made into a workpant if sewn in canvas?).

  2. You did an amazing job, your Gingers look incredible! I am really tempted by the pattern as I like the high waist but I end up being a size 6 on the waist and a 2 on the hip…not sure if that is feasible, especially for someone who has never seen jeans before!

    • I would give it a try! When I basted together my fabric to test the fit out I found I had to cut almost all of the curve of the lower hips so I was probably about 2 or 3 sizes smaller at the low hips/thighs than at the high hips. I really recommend following the instructions where they suggest to baste your main fabric together (rather than sewing a mock up with different fabric) – this way you will be able to work with the exact amount of stretch that your fabric contains to get a perfect fit. Good luck!

      • Thank you for the reply, you have inspired me to add them to my 2016 project list! I have such problems getting RTW jeans to fit, it’s worth a shot 😁

  3. I’ve been eyeing those Ginger jeans but am feeling a little daunted by the challenge to be honest – BUT when I see how these look on you and imagdenimine the sheer luxury of finally having a pair of jeans that fit…well I’m more than sorely tempted. I have a few metres of lightly stetch Liberty of London denim sitting in my stash that would look really lovely in a pair of jeans! Thank you for sharing your experience, process and success! Your jeans look just perfect on you 🙂

    • Thank you for your lovely comment about my jeans! Your Liberty denim sounds wonderful – I’ve never seen their denim in person but I bet it is just as stunning as their cottons! I recommend making one or two practice versions and wearing them for a while before cutting into your Liberty fabric. I loved how my jeans fit at first but as I’ve worn them the legs have become considerably baggier. I still love the fit but it is a very different feeling style now – one that I like to pair with flannel button ups more than ballerina cardigans now. It’s amazing what a centimetre or two of width can change in a pair of jeans!

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  5. hello
    lle pantalon est magnifique mais j adore le croise-coeur blanc en haut , un modèle comme cela là à réaliser !!!
    à mettre aussi avec une jupe longue pour l’été .
    bon dimanche

    lle pants are magnificent but j adore crosses(meets) him(it) white heart at the top, a model like that there to realize!!!
    To put also with a long skirt for summer.
    Good Sunday

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  7. Just WOW! These are stunning and fit you perfectly. Thanks for the inspiration! I’ve got both the Ginger and the Jamie jeans patterns on the cutting table but am a bit nervous about diving in… you set the bar high! 🙂

    • You can do it! My biggest advice is don’t skip the basting step – baste all the pieces together to create a ‘mock-up’ before actually sewing your seams – Heather Lou suggests this within her instructions and I found it to be a really nice way to perfect the fit.

  8. These jeans! Wow! I need to make these jeans too! You look fab and the scenery is just amazing!

  9. These are so great! That topstitching is gorgeous and they fit you so well. You should definitely wear them with shorter tops as I think they look fantastic on you!

  10. Stunning pics! That river looks magnificent. Love the Gingers- all those little details have made for a totally beautiful pair of Jeans!!

  11. Morgan these are amazing!!!! I’ve been admiring all the gingers around and can’t wait to get started on a pair for myself now we’re heading into cooler weather in Australia. I’m very envious of your incredible topstitching 😉

    • Thanks :). I was very thankful for my industrial machine while top stitching. For some reason, I couldn’t get my domestic machine to handle the thick top stitching thread – I hope yours will!

  12. These are the best I’ve seen of allll the Gingers!! Fabulous!

  13. Wow…well done, Morgan! The Sew Your Own Jeans world has a new Poster Person:) Beautiful river, btw!

  14. Oh I love these!! I muslined the low rise Ginger Jeans but haven’t sewn them up yet (need some alterations). But after seeing so many beautiful high waist versions, I think I’m going to switch to that view 🙂

    • I plan to do the low rise variation next :). My friend sewed the low rise variation recently and they fit her very nicely – the rise isn’t extremely low which is a huge plus in my opinion. Good luck with your Gingers, whatever view you end up choosing!

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  16. Wowie they look amazing on you! I wondered how that denim would work out from Atex. Glad that the one you picked is nice quality! Sometimes you can’t tell with denim until you actually sew it up and wear it.

    • I was nervous about it at first because it was stiff and smelled really strong at first. Nicole washed it quite a few times and it softened up beautifully. The smell is still there a little but I’m sure will fade over time! I hope your beautiful wool turned out to be as successful! I wish I had the local fabric and notion selection that you have – thank goodness for online fabric shops :).

  17. Your butt looks incredible. Can’t wait to see the “after” with teh wax!

  18. Wow, Morgan! These are simply stunning- congrats on finding the elusive perfect jeans!

  19. Oh your Jeans look absolutely amazing!

  20. Amazing jeans!! Your pictures are beautiful too, great set to show them off! The fit is perfect on you 🙂

  21. These look amazing! Fabulous fit!

  22. They look great!!! But my mind got stuck on the idea that your favourite leggings aren’t comfortable! Have you tried the Espresso leggings pattern by Cake? It’s sooooo good, because connect dots to match your measurements, and in less than 10 min you have a perfectly proportioned leggings pattern with the right rise, length, and fit for you. Seriously, try it! 🙂

    • You’re right, my leggings clearly aren’t as comfortable as they should be (and my most worn ones are all RTW). I haven’t tried the Espresso pattern yet but I think I’ll add that to my sewing list – I’ve been so curious to try out such an innovative sizing strategy! Thanks for the recommendation!

  23. Wow, these look great! Can’t wait to see the waxed version too.

  24. Whoah, these look amazing! Love the colour and the fit, great job.

  25. Definitely not mum jeans. They’re great, very pinup!

  26. Thank you for the intro to Ginger Jeans. I, too have difficulty getting a good fit and had resorted to unstitching my favs to copy them. Maybe I won’t have to do that now!

  27. Beautiful jeans! They look amazing on you, and (as usual) so well sewn. I’m working on Gingers this month, shorts first as my trail fit and then the jeans. I keep flip flopping between the high and low waists, but you’ve definitely put visions of high waisted jeans in my head now.

    • That’s such a great idea to make shorts as a trial version! I plan to sew both variations for variety but it is pretty difficult to convince myself not to simply make a second high waist pair next! Good luck with your Gingers!

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