Thread Theory

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Jutland Sew-Along: Creating the Waistband

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During today’s update for the Jutland Sew-Along I’ll be showing you how to sew the waistband onto the pants.  This is how your pants will appear when you are ready to begin assembling the waistband:
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To create the waistband, place the waistband and waistband facing with right sides together.  Pin along one edge.IMGP2707

Stitch along the entire length and press the seam allowance towards the waistband facing.  Grade the seam allowances so that one is shorter than the other (I grade the thicker fabric shorter).  Under stitch along the entire seam.IMGP2710

This is what your waistband will look like from the wrong side:

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Finish the raw edge of the facing with bias binding, seam tape or by using a serger or zig zag stitch.IMGP2712

Now it’s time to attach the waistband to the pants!  Place the waistband and pants with right sides together.IMGP2713

Grade the seam allowance (I like to grade the pants seam allowance shorter than the waistband) and press the seam allowance towards the waistband.
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Here is what the graded seam allowance looks like at this point:IMGP2721IMGP2724

Now it’s time to finish the waistband corners.  Position the waistband and waistband facing with right sides together.  The seam allowances should sit next to the waistband facing.IMGP2725

This is what your waistband will look like from the waistband side:IMGP2728

Stitch along the waistband edge using a 5/8″ seam allowance.
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Trim the seam allowance to 3/8″.  Don’t clip the corners though!  Keeping a 3/8″ seam allowance along this seam will add strength and structure on this high stress area.IMGP2739

Pinch the seam allowance and waistband facing:IMGP2741IMGP2748

Flip the facing so that the the wrong sides are together.  Keep the seam allowance pinched as you do this so that a fold is formed at the top edge of the waistband:IMGP2749

Here is how the fold will look at this point:IMGP2742

And a nice square waistband corner will result!

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Now it’s time to finish the waistband facing.IMGP2745

Fold under the waistband facing for several inches on either waistband end:IMGP2747

Pin the rest of the waistband facing in place.IMGP2751

To finish the waistband facing, topstitch 1/8″ from the waistband seam from the right side.IMGP2753

And you’re done!  The only thing left to do is top-stitch your belt loops in place and add a button and buttonhole!IMGP2757

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