Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!

Comox Trunks Sew-Along: Attaching the elastic waistband

11 Comments

By the end of today’s post you will have finished Comox Trunks that are ready for you to photograph for your chance to win our awesome prize package (that includes everything you need to sew a whole underwear drawer of trunks).

Today we’ll be attaching the elastic waistband.

First, I will show you the method included in the instruction booklet to create an exposed elastic waistband as you would find on most store-bought trunk style underwear.

After that, I’ll show you my attempt at a fabric covered elastic waistband.  ***Full disclosure – I’ve somehow managed to avoid sewing fabric covered elastic waistbands my entire sewing-life and so am not sure if my technique is the best one available.  You might have some tips for me about how to make this process smoother :) ***

Okay, lets get started on our exposed elastic waistband.  First, we need to form a loop by sewing the two narrow edges together.  I used a reinforced stitch for this but you could also use a narrow zig zag (and sew over the seam at least twice) or even a straight stitch if you sew over it several times to ensure that your threads won’t snap when the elastic stretches.

87

And here is our loop after I’ve pressed open the seam allowance:

88

I like to force the seam allowances to lay flat by zig zagging them to the main elastic.  This will help prevent them from being too scratchy.

90

This is how the trapped seam allowances appear from the inside of the waistband:

89

In the instruction booklet I give two options for attaching your garment tag (which comes with the paper sewing pattern).  I’ve gone with my favourite option.  While I am all for proudly displaying our brand on the exterior of our garments (lol I hate clothing with visible brand names usually but it’s a different story with my own brand :P) I prefer to place the tag over the elastic seam allowance.  Our tags are nice and soft so they’ll provide one extra layer between the wearer and the scratchy seam allowances.  If you don’t have a garment tag you could use a fabric scrap or ribbon instead.

91

 

And now it’s time for us to add the waistband to the shorts.  This step is very straight forward (indeed, it can sometimes be a little confusing to people because they are expecting it to be more difficult!).  All you need to do is line up the trunks and elastic exactly how they will look when they are finished and then sew them in place!  Here is how to line them up:

 

93

You will need to line up the right side of the shorts with the wrong side of the elastic so that the elastic overlaps the fabric 3/8″.  The elastic is the outermost layer.  Position the elastic seam at centre back and pin in place.  Also pin centre front.
95

At this point, I like to divide the elastic in quarters and place pins where side seams normally would be.

96

I then place pins between each of my four pins to result in eight pins that evenly distribute the trunk fabric around the elastic.9798

Here, you can see how this will look from the inside once you have placed your pins:

99

And now it is just a matter of stitching the two layers together!  I used a zig zag stitch but you can also use a twin needle for a lovely professional finish.  You will need to stretch the elastic slightly as you sew to ease in the excess fabric.  Depending on whether you created a custom fit waistband or not (by wrapping it around the wearer to determine the length needed) will depend on how much easing you need to do.100

Don’t worry if the fabric looks a little gathered in areas by the time you are done (see mine below – especially in the front area) because this will stretch out when the wearer puts the trunks on and sit perfectly smoothly.

101

I went over my zig zag stitch a second time for added strength.  You could even do this a third time if you wanted because of all the seams in these trunks, this is the one that is under the most pressure and is the most likely to snap.

102

Once I finished stitching I cleaned up my seam allowance by trimming the fabric closer to the zig zag stitches.

106107

Wahoo! Our trunks are done! (Unless you are holding out for the fabric covered waistband of course).

Here is what I did to create a fabric covered waistband:

I sewed the elastic into a loop as I explained above (including stitching the seam allowances flat).

IMGP7179

Next I needed to create a fabric loop that could sandwich the elastic and still have enough seam allowance to attach to the trunks.  To create this, I cut two rectangles of fabric (you could cut one long rectangle if you only want one seam, I just didn’t have enough scrap fabric to do this).  The rectangles each measured as follows: The length of your elastic loop (i.e. roughly the width of your trunks)  plus two seam allowances + double the width of your elastic plus two seam allowances.

Sew the narrow edges together to form a tube and you will end up with this:
IMGP7178

And here is a better view so you can see how the fabric tube relates in size to the trunks:IMGP7176
Now sandwich the elastic in your fabric by folding the loop in half over the elastic (with wrong sides together).

IMGP7182IMGP7183

To keep everything lined up, you can baste the fabric loop closed along the bottom.  I used a zipper foot so that I could get close enough to the elastic to prevent the elastic from sliding around.

IMGP7184

Here is the elastic-stuffed and basted loop:

IMGP7185

Now I pinned the elastic/fabric loop to the trunks with right sides together and the seams lined up at either side.

IMGP7188

And I serged the entire loop.  This is more or less effective – the only problem is that you can’t get very close to the elastic edge with the serger so the fabric waistband looks a little floppy and loose.  The only way to create a narrower fabric tube would be to leave a hole in the tube and thread the elastic into it AFTER the tube is attached to the main trunks.

IMGP7190

I just used the reinforced straight stitch and a zipper foot to stitch closer to the elastic:

IMGP7191

And there we go, finished trunks with a super soft and comfy fabric covered waistband!

IMGP7194

I’m really looking forward to seeing your trunks!  Check back in two days to see my final post for this sew-along which will detail how to do a photo shoot of your trunks if you don’t have attractive and confident underwear model at your beck and call ;).

About these ads

11 thoughts on “Comox Trunks Sew-Along: Attaching the elastic waistband

  1. I love this pattern so so much!! Another huge win. I made my first pair this afternoon – fast and satisfying, yet detailed, and should have it on the blog for the giveaway soon. Your designs are so well put together – if you ever need a pattern tester, I’m in!

  2. i’v been contemplating fabric covered waistbands lately (as i’ve done them a few times with the method you show and have never been totally satisfied) and just realized a super easy solution–if you catch the elastic in the actual seam as you sew the waistband on, you can eliminate the floppy awkwardness. i’ll be giving it a try for a pair of yoga/lounge pants i want to sew this week, hopefully it gives me good results!

    • That’s a good idea Lisa! Though I wonder if the amount your elastic can stretch would then be limited by your stitches (if the elastic is stretched too far would the stitches break?). It sure would make it less prone to flipping around in its fabric casing – that drives me crazy on one of my favourite RTW skirts!

      • i would think that if you serge or zig-zag with a wide short stitch you’d be okay. i know the floppy waistbands are annoying, so hopefully this works well!

  3. I will try to pour into the Javanese batik patterns, with a little light brown color

  4. You missed the step that says “don’t accidentally sew the bottom of the leg to the waistband” ¬_¬

    • Oh dear! :P I hope you just caught a tiny bit of it – I hate when that happens! Have you since unpicked and happily finished them?

      • i unpicked, and certainly finished – definitely need to give this another try! haha.
        i somehow managed to stitch far too far into the elastic, and maybe used too long a piece….
        argh i need to take a photo that doesn’t make them look atrocious! :D

      • Photos are nicely deceiving :P I’m glad you were able to finish them and I hope they are wearable and comfy for you!

What do you think? Leave a comment for me :)

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 781 other followers